Collar.



R. M. RODDEN.

COLLAR.

APPLICATION FILED Nov. 25, 1911.

l, 1 1 6,488. Patented Nov. 10, 1914.

RICHARDMONTGOMERY RODDEN, OF MONTREAL, QUEBEC, CANADA.

COLLAR.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Nov. 10, 1914i.

Application led November 25, 1911. Serial No. 662,460.

n exact description of same.

Thisinvention relates vto improvements in collars, and the main object is to provide a collar `which will have the appearance of an `ordinary standing collar combined with the convenience ofthe folded clollar.

A further object is to provide a collar adaptable to mens or womens wear which may be finished asa standing or wing collar or as lan ornamental collar for men or women, by folding as desired.

The ordinary standing collar, such as is used for evening wear or the same collar with the corners folded down, known as the wing collar, is preferred by many persons but have been more or less supplanted by the fold collar largely on account of the great ease with which the tie is held in place by these latter collars. The fold collar is also preferred on account of its superior fit,

, it `being held against gaping at the top by the specially `formed tongue of one end engaging the fold of the other end.

The prese-nt invention aims to combine the two forms and produce a resulting collar having the most desirable features of each form. This end is attained by forming a collar of substantially the same shape as the standing collar, and providing the lower portion thereof with an internal flap having at the endstongues of the same form as are used in the fold collars. The button holes are formed in this flap and when in use the tie is held between the collar and flap in the same manner as in a fold collar.

In the drawings which illustrate this invention:-Figure 1 is a perspective view of the collar. Fig. 2 is a similar view showing the corners folded out to produce a wing collar. Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the collar as finished for either womens or Inens wear. Fig. 4 is a plan view of the outer face of the. collar. Fig. 5 is a plan view of the inner face of the collar. Fig. 6 is a cross sectional view of the collar. Fig. 7 i's a cross sectional view of the collar, folded as shown in Fig. 3.

Referring more particularly to the draw-A ings, 11 designates the collar body proper',

having an internal flap 12 connected thereto at a suitable line intermediate the upper and lower edges 13 and 14: respectively of the body. This flap 12 is provided at the ends with tongues 15 and 16, the latter of which, 16, has a suitably curved upper edge 17 adapted to lie in the top of the space between the opposite ends of the collar body and Hap in the well known manner to hold the col ar from gaping. The upper edge 13 of the collar is substantially straight, while the lower. edge is suitably curved to lit the wearers neck and may be provided at the back with a notch 18 positioned to disclose the back button hole 19 formed in the Hap and also to adjust the fastening of a bow tie. The front button holes 20 are of the usual type or may, one or both, be of the type shown in Fig. 8.

From the foregoing .it will be seen that the collar is divided longitudinally into two portions, the upper portion 31 being in the form of a single standing collar while the lower portion 22 is in the forni of a fold collar. Since, however, the upper and lower portions are continuous on the outer surface of the collar, the appearance will onlybe that of a single standing collar if the tie 23 is worn with the knot outside the fold, as indicated in Fig. 1. If the tie is worn with the knot inside the fold, as shown in Fig. 2,

the appearance will be practically 'the same as an ordinary fold collar.

In laundrying the collar, the corners 24: may be turned down to form the well known wings 25 and the tie arranged as pleases the wearers fancy. Again' the upper single portion 21 may be folded down as shown in Fig. 3. This arrangement is purely ornamental and is intended principally for wolnens use, but it will be understood that mens collars may be laundried in this way if desired, the advantage being that an ordinary height collar and a low warm weather collar are combined in one, and thus do not necessitate the purchase of two sets of col lars of different heights. This form of the collar when madeespecially for womens wear may be slightly higher in the folded portion than the collars made for mens wear, and may be provided near the lower corners Q6 with button holes or slots 27 for the reception of a tie, brooch or otherornament. The portion 21 may be suitably erna mented if desired.

In order to insure sufficient room between l Ml ' flattened out and stitched on the line 34 the 'a plurality of inverted V-shaped notches 30 the body 1l and the flap 12 to prevent any binding of the tie, the -ap is provided with extending upwardly from the lower edge of the liap, and terminatingat or near the junction of the flap with the body. `hese notches 3U are preferabl arranged in the position shown, but may lie located at other poilu` `)r increased in number if it is found .lcsirable. These notches serve 'a double purpose. They allow the collar to be ironed hat and when the collar is put on they allow the tension of the tie to contract the lower edge of the flap, so, that the flap draws away from the collar body and leaves ample space for the easy adjustment of the tie.

The preferred method of making the collar, having reference particularly to Figs. 6 and 7, is to attach two layers of fabrics, 31 and 32 respectively, together by a substantially straight seam, this seam being at the upper edge of the collar. The layer 31 forms the outer surface of the collar body 11 while the layer 32, which may if desired be a little narrower as shown, forms the inner surface of the collar bod and the inner surface of the flap 12. A third layer 33 of the fabric is then connected at its edges to the free edges of the layers 31 and 32. This third layer is folded in. between the layers 31 and and is secured to the layer 32 by a line of stitching 34. It will be seen in Fig. 5 that this line of stitching is slightly curved, being nearer the upper edge of the collar at its center than at'its ends. In folding the layer 33 the fold is made in a curve slightly greater than the curve of the line of stitching 34, so that when this curve is halves of the layer will tend to separate, as shown in Figs. 6 and 7, thus leaving ample room for the tie when the collar is bent into circular form. This separation of the parts is assisted by the notches 30 when the collar is worn. The spacing of they inner and outer members of a collar, called the spring, is an essential feature, well known in the manufacture of fold collars. While only the layers of material forming the facing of the collar have ybeen shown` it will be understood that the lining Ior` Copies of thi: patent may be obtained for nve cents 'stiffening material will be treated in the same manner. The dotted line 35 in Fig. 5 indicates the line of fold of the member 33. It may also be found desirable to make the flap 12 separately from the body of the co1- lar and connect the two members at the line 3l. It may also be found desirable t0 make causing creasing or buckling of the .lowerl` portion or of the flap. In other words, the

over the lower. v

The right is reserved to make various modifications, which do not depart from the spirit of the invention, and to alter thedesign of the collar as may be deemed advisable, it being understood that the design shown in the drawings is only for purposes.

of illustra-ting the structure and method of manufacture. These collars may be` made in soft as well as starched styles.

- Having now fully described my invention, I declare that what claim .is:-

In a collar two layers of .fabric secured together at their upper edges, a third layer of fabric having its ,edges secured to the A .1o i curved fold line imparts suicientspring to enable proper folding of the upper portion' adjacent lower edges of the first two layers,

said third layer being Vfolded in a longitudil nally extending curve and inserted between the, lower portions of the firstv two layers, and a curved line of stitching attaching the v third layer at its -fold to one of the first two layers, the curvature of said fold being greater. than the curvature of the line of stitching.

In witness whereof I have hereunto set Y.

each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

wllhinfton, D. C. I 

